The Flatlands

Weeks of never-ending heat in Cordoba meant I, like the birds, was in search of water. The obvious choice might have been to head for the coast but I decided to visit a wetland area in the La Mancha plain, the land of windmills in Don Quixote, called Tablas de Daimiel. The area was declared a National Park in 1973 and is one of the smallest, with an area of 1928 hectares. In 1988 it was made a Special Protection Area for Birds (ZEPA). Tablas de Daimiel is the last remaining example of floodland wetlands which were once common in central Spain. The wetlands are fed with two types of water making an unusual ecosystem: the Guadiana contributes fresh water, while its tributary the Gigüela is brackish. Underground streams also used to surface in springs known as Ojos (eyes). The area is an important stopping point to a great number of migratory birds as well as a wide range of resident species. 

My friend Ron and I left Cordoba early and stopped mid-morning at a roadside bar in the Sierra de Despeñaperos, which is located at the eastern edge of the Sierra Morena. The decision to lift the binoculars out the car proved to be a good one, as before we had even sat down for our coffee we had spotted a Spanish Imperial Eagle soaring around the mountain tops. We were also able to observe it through the telescope when it landed on a electricity pylon. It was soon followed by another and four or five Griffon Vultures. Not a bad way to start the trip!

By lunch time we had arrived at Tablas de Daimiel and wasted no time in setting off round the park. Stopping at the first pond we watched Reed Warblers darting between the reeds. A little further along we had a Great Tit, Zitting Cisticolas, Reed Buntings, Stonechats and Moorhens. Every so often a Marsh Harrier would glide over the reeds search for its prey and bee-eaters would pass overhead calling loudly.

Zitting Cisticola

There were not many birds to be seen and worryingly much of the park was dry. Boardwalks over the marshes now passed over dry land. While August is one of the driest times of the year, it was hard not to wonder if the lack of water is a result of intensive agriculture in the surrounding area which has drained the water table and natural springs.

European Pond Turtle

Our luck seemed to change as we neared the end of the track. First we caught sight of a Bearded Reedling flying over the reeds. This was one of the birds we had come to see so it was great to catch sight of it even if it was only fleeting. Next we watched a Penduline Tit in a tree beside the path and a few Kingfishers zipped past. Sand Martins were swooping over the reeds and a Little Bittern hurried into the cover of the reeds as we approached. Then we heard a strange pig-like squeal coming from the reed bed. Ron told me that this was a Water Rail and after waiting for a while we were rewarded with the sight of one darting across the water. It certainly produced a strange noise for such a small bird. 

Water Rail

Rehydrating at a nearby bar we saw a flash of yellow as a Golden Oriole flew past and landed in a tree.

Golden Oriole

After our break we decided to look for sandgrouse. With no real idea of where to go we followed a track across the countryside in an area called Campo de Calatrava. It takes its name from the Order of Calatrava, a military order which held territory in the area from the time when it was on the border between Christian and Muslim Spain. We passed fields of watermelons, onions and others with grapes or olives. But what were looking for were bare muddy fields which we suspected would be more attractive to the sandgrouse. We drove for some time, our eyes starting to ache from scanning endless fields, without luck. After an hour all we had seen for our efforts was a Stone Curlew, Hoopoes, a few Crested Larks and some Magpies. Just before we reached the end of the road, Ron's bird-dar activated and he drove us up a side track. At first we saw a Griffon Vulture being mobbed by a smaller raptor and then we shouted out in unison as we saw what we were looking for - sandgrouse sitting together on the ground in the far end of a field. We had come across a group of about 30 birds and were able to observe them through the telescope despite the heat haze. They were Pin-Tailed Sandgrouse, a beautiful bird with its striking rufous breast. These birds were a lifer for me and a great way to end the day. 

Pin-Tailed Sandgrouse

On our second day we went to Laguna de Navaseca, a lagoon which never dries up due to the constant supply of water from a treatment plant. It is a great site with numerous hides offering different views of the lagoon. From the first hide we could see Flamingos, Greylag Geese, Black-Winged Stilts, Little Egrets, Little Grebes and Black-Necked Grebes. There was a large group of White-Headed Ducks in the middle of the lagoon. There are reported to be over 150 individuals here, which is a sign of the remarkable turnaround for the species since the late seventies when there were only 22 left in Spain and all of them in Laguna de Zonar in Cordoba. 

Juvenile White-Headed Duck

A little further along we had good views of some of the waders such as Little-Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Wood Sandpipers, a Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpipers, Curlew Sandpiper and a couple of Little Stints. Glossy Ibis arrived and there were also large numbers of Lapwings, Moorhens and Coots. 

Glossy Ibis

The second hide allowed us to get close to the water's edge. We watched a couple of Water Rails and a Purple Swamphen feeding along the edge of the reeds. Ducks were also present, with Teal, Gadwall and Red-Crested Pochard added to the list. A pair of Snipe briefly flew in and we watched a Bluethroat and Bearded Reedling come down for a drink. A Marsh Harrier would occasionally fly over the reed bed causing panic amongst the other birds. In the trees behind us we saw a Golden Oriole, Cetti's Warblers, Willow Warblers, Woodchat Shrike, Linnets, Goldfinches and Ron spotted an Olivious Warbler. 

Goldfinch

Our last stop around the lagoon saw us add Ruff, Redshank, Black-tailed Godwits, Little Bitterns, Squacco Heron and Great-Crested Grebes to our day list. We also observed Pin-Tailed Sandgrouse flying in to drink.

Great-Crested Grebe

After lunch it was time to leave the flatlands behind us and head back to Cordoba. With over 80 species and all but one of our target species found (Black-Bellied Sandgrouse remained elusive) the trip was a resounding success. It would however be interesting to return in early spring to see the area when the water levels are higher and the birds are calling more. 

The Guadalquivir

The Guadalquivir, which stretches 650 kilometres from its source in Sierra de Cazorla to the Atlantic Ocean in Doñana,  is sometimes described as the backbone of Andalucia. Such was its importance in Roman times, the whole region was called Baetica after the Roman name for it. Today, it plays a vital role in irrigating cropland and its waters support a wide range of fauna. However, accessing the river outside the city of Cordoba can sometimes be difficult. One of the best places to do so is at El Salto reservoir near the town of Pedro Abad, which lies 35 kilometers east of Cordoba. At the hydroelectric dam the water flows slowly and the river is wide and meandering. 

The dam itself is a good place to stop and scan for activity in the reeds and along the banks. Little Egrets, Grey Herons, Moorhens, Coots and Common Waxbills are often seen feeding here and if you are lucky you might catch a glimpse of an otter. South of the dam Common Sandpipers, Cormorants and Grey Wagtails can be observed on the boulders and rocks. It is also a good place to check the skies for raptors. I have seen Marsh Harriers, Buzzards and Black Kites here. 

Black Kite

Following the road in the direction of Adamuz you can stop to enjoy the views of the river and look along the swathes of reedbeds. I have seen Purple Swamphens hiding in the canes, Kingfishers darting from their perches to catch fish and groups of Cranes passing overhead. 

Purple Swamphen

A little further along the road you come to Arroyo Tamujoso. Often this stream is all but dried up, however it is worth stopping here to explore the area on both sides of the bridge. On the northern side I watched Kingfishers fishing in the stream and Robins, Blackcaps, Long-tailed Tits in the white poplars. On one visit I was lucky enough to get a view of a Firecrest as it hopped between branches in search of insects. A Tawny Owl was also heard calling from the trees where I parked the car but unfortunately I wasn't able to see it.

Robin

There is also a large rock outcrop called Peñón del Jituero which is a popular spot for climbers. Black Redstarts have nested in holes in the rock and on one occasion I saw a Great Spotted Woodpecker raiding a nest and causing quite a commotion. 

Black Redstart

Crossing the bridge, there is a small area which can be explored on foot. Song Thrushes and Redwings can be found here in winter and I have also spotted Hawfinches, Chaffinches, Hoopoes as well as large groups of Azure-Winged Magpies. 

The whole area is also one of the best places near Cordoba to see Bonelli's Eagles which must be nesting nearby, as I have seen them on almost every visit. These large raptors are one of the most agile and are also extremely aggressive even towards other large birds of prey. 

Bonelli's Eagle

This is certainly a place which has a good range of resident birds and it is reported to be home to Eagle Owls and the elusive Water Rail, although I haven't seen them here. You are also likely to encounter passage drop-ins, such as Osprey and Spoonbills, meaning you never know what you might find. 

Sierra de Hornachuelos

Fifty kilometres west of Cordoba lies Hornacuelos National Park in the Sierra Morena. The vast unpopulated area of scrubland, Mediterranean woodland and Holm Oak woods make it a great location for seeing some of the region's more secretive fauna.

It is a large area to explore but a good starting point is the visitor centre just outside the village of Hornacuelos. There are various walks which can be done from here, some of which require permission, but the simplest is La Rabilarga trail. Despite only being about 2km long it offers the chance to see a wide range of species and follows La Rabilarga stream. In February we saw a Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, the star attraction, just metres from the visitor centre. We also saw many members of the tit family, including Blue Tits, Great Tits, Crested Tits and Long-tailed Tits.

Long-tailed Tit

The thickets along the river are also home to Blackcaps, Sardinian Warblers, Robins, Nightingales, Cetti's Warbler, Serins, Hawfinches, Goldfinches and Chaffinches. A recent trip in August also revealed that this area is popular with Golden Orioles. 

Female Blackcap

In the Cork Oaks see saw Short-Toed Treecreepers, Nuthaches, Bonelli's Warblers, Spotless Starlings, Hoopoes and Azure-Winged Magpies, which the stream is named after.  

Other areas of the park can be explored by car. While there are not many places to pull in off the road the lack of traffic makes it relatively easy to stop. The A-3151 from the village of Hornacuelos to San Calixto and beyond is a drive which offers spectacular views of the wild landscape and the chance to see some of the more secretive birds that live here as well as Red Deer, Wild Boar and butterflies. 

Cardenillo (Tomares ballus)

We have seen Griffon and Black Vultures soaring overhead as well as Red Kites, Booted Eagles, Buzzards and Black Storks. There is also a local population of Spanish Imperial Eagles. 

Spanish Imperial Eagle

The remoteness of the park makes it a great place for star watching and there are now regular activities throughout the year to promote this. 

The Milky Way

The area is also one of the key beekeeping regions in Andalucia and the fantastic honey can be bought in a small shop in the village. 

Bee feeding on the nectar

Far and Wide

Last November I set myself a target of 200 species in Spain by the end of this summer. I realised that to achieve my goal I would need to travel a little further afield and my first destination was Sierra Magina in Jaen province. It was a bitterly cold day with frost on the ground at the higher altitudes and few birds showing. We were lucky enough to catch sight of three Golden Eagles soaring above the mountain peaks and a Ring Ozul (a lifer) feeding on berries. The only other excitement for the day were a few Crossbills that sat obligingly on top of the pines. 

The next few trips were to the north of Cordoba. In Sierra de Andujar we a saw a couple of Lynx as well as great views of a Spanish Imperial Eagle. In the ZEPA Alto Guadiato we watched Cranes coming into to their nighttime roosting sites, their loud trumping calls alerting us to the presence before we could even see them. They spend the day feeding on acorns and other seeds before gathering to fly to their roost sites. We watched them landing on a small island in the reservoir which offered them protection from terrestrial animals such as foxes. They winter here and their arrival is also one of the highlights of the colder months. Oddly, there was the belief in Doñana that eating crane meat which had been cooked on a grill with seven different types of wood would result in a long life. I am glad that this belief no longer exists!  

Cranes

In the same area we observed a group of Great Bustards in a distant field. And nearby, at the Castillo de Santa Eufemia we had superb views of a Black Vulture, a Golden Eagle, Griffon Vultures, Kestrels and Black Wheatears.

View from the castle at Santa Eufemia

Winter soon turned to spring and I was still about 20 birds short of my target. A trip to Cadiz for work gave me the perfect excuse to go to Vejer de la Fronter in search of one of the world's most threatened birds - the Bald Ibis. Listed as Critically Endangered on the ICUN Red List, this population of 80 or so birds is as a result of a reintroduction programme. A newly constructed viewing platform allowed us to observe these comical-looking birds at close quarters as they collected material to repair their nests.

Bald Ibis

In May I travelled to Brazo del Este near Seville, which is fast becoming one of my favourite birding sites because of the sheer number of birds it is home to. With much help from my friend Ron, we got 58 species in one day including Montagu's Harriers, Black Kites, Little Bitterns, a Squacco Heron, Purple Herons, Spoonbills, Flamingos, Glossy Ibis, Avocets, Curlew Sandpipers, Wood Sandpipers, Redshanks, a Stone Curlew, Collared Pratincole, Gull-billed Terns, Whiskered Terns, Great Reed, Warblers, Black- Headed Weavers, and a Roller.

Flamingo

The star of the day was a Savi's Warbler which was calling loudly from the top of a reed. Its distinctive song made distinguishing it from other members of the warbler family quite easy, once Ron told me what to listen for. The days birding gave me four new species for my list and brought me ever closer to my target.

Great Reed Warbler

We also found this large nest which I presume is home to either the Yellow-Crowned Bishop or the Black Headed Weaver.

In July I heard of a real rarity, a Red-footed Booby, which had been sighted in Caleta de Velez, Malaga. Ron and I set off in search of it but were disappointed to see that it was not on what we had been told was its favourite floodlight nor in the surrounding area. The local population of Monk Parakeets, with their bright green plumage, provided a brief distraction as they squawked loudly from the palm trees around the harbour area. Not a native species to Spain, SEO estimates that there are at least 20,000 of them across the country. They were brought here as pets and escaped or released birds have quickly formed a 'healthy' population in many Spanish cities. This rapid growth has led to calls for them to be eradicated because of the damage they cause to native flora and fauna. 

Monk Parakeet

We continued our wait  and watched a Cory's Shearwater skillfully gliding over the waves off the coast and Audouin's Gulls on the beach.

Audouin's Gull

After an hour or so we concluded that the Booby had probably gone out to sea to feed and so we drove on to La Charca Suarez in Granada province. This is a site I had read a lot about but had never had the chance to visit. It is a haven for wildlife surrounded by apartment complexes and industrial estates. The infrastructure for birders is great with many hides overlooking the lakes around the park. And despite only having an hour to look around before they closed the gates, it did not disappoint. We had close views of a Squacco Heron, Purple Swamphens, Red Crested Pochards, Little Grebes and Red Knobbed Coots, which were another first for me. These are one of the most endangered birds in Spain and were released here in the 90's as part of a reintroduction programme. The look very much like a coot except for two red nodules on their heads which they have during breeding season.

Red Knobbed Coot

After stopping for a drink we decided to call in again at Caleta de Velez on our way home. It proved to be a good decision as we immediately located our target bird, the Red-footed Booby. It was busy preening and seemed quite unaware of the gulls which were put out at losing one of their perches to this strange foreigner. I say this as it is usually found around 9,000 kilometers away in the Caribbean. This juvenile, with its brown plumage, blue eye contour and red legs, had caused quite a stir in the birding world. It is what the Spanish call a 'megarareza' and had even had an article devoted to it in El Pais. We watched it for about half an hour, hoping it would take off to allow us to see it in flight but it didn't oblige. It was another one for my Spain list (even if it isn't in my Collins) and meant that I was on 199. Just one more to go!

Red Foot Booby

After travelling far and wide across Andalucia to find some rarities, number 200 came closer to home in the Sierra Morena. Again with the help of my friend Ron we saw a pair of Western Bonelli's Warblers. They were quite hard to get in the binoculars because they were constantly moving as they hopped between branches looking for small insects and occasionally picking one up from the ground before darting back to the cover of the leaves. Of a similar size to a Willow Warbler, what really made them stand out was their silky white underparts. 

There are of course many more birds which I have yet to see in Spain, some quite common, and with the variety of habitats that Andalucia has to offer I am sure it won't be too long before I can add them to my list.