Los Villares

In the Sierra Morena just 8 kilometres from Cordoba is Los Villares Park. It is a popular site for people from the city to go for a barbecue, a walk along one of the marked paths or a weekend of camping. And at just under 500 hectares, it supports a wide range of flora and fauna.

One of the most surprising animals to be found here is the Egyptian Mongoose. They are diurnal animals and opportunistic hunters, feeding on birds, insects, reptiles and fish. They are rarely seen as they sulk silently through the undergrowth but the best opportunity to spot them is often when they come to water sources to drink in the hotter summer months. 

Egyptian Mongoose enjoying a drink on a hot summer day

 

Siesta time

Similarly stealthy and wily are foxes, which can be seen in this part of the Sierra Morena often in the early morning or late evening.

Fox

Water will attract all sorts of wildlife and the streams that run through the park are vital to a whole array of animals in the summer. Iberian Hares will come to drink and if you wait patiently near a water source you will have a good catch to see the shyer bird species that live here, such as the Cirl Bunting. 

Iberian Hare

Cirl Bunting

The Iberian Green Woodpecker will make use of its extraordinarily long tongue to reach the water in a pond. Measuring about 10cm long, it is normally used to reach into ant nests to get to one of its favourite foods. Its tongue in fact is so long that it coils behind the skull, over the eyes and into its nostril

Long tongue of the Green Woodpecker

And of course where there is water you will find insect life, such as this Epaulet Skimmer dragonfly.

Epaulet Skimmer

In the carpark in Los Villares you are sure to see and hear the resident band of Azure-Winged Magpies with their powder blue wings and tail. I have counted over 60 birds together here on one occasion. 

Azure.winged Magpie

One of the nicest walks in the park is the Botanical Path, which loops through Oak and then Pine forest. Here we can see typical woodland species such as Blue Tits, Great Tits, Long-tailed Tits, Robins, Great Spotted Woodpeckers, Jays and Sparrowhawks. And when the trees open up and we look up it is not uncommon to spot a passing Griffon Vulture .

Great Tit

 

Long-tailed Tit

As the seasons change, so too do the species we can fid. In spring and early summer we can see Golden Oriels, which despite their bright yellow plumage blend in incredibly well in the foliage. Bonelli's and Subalpine Warblers breed here as does the increasingly endangered Turtle Dove. 

Bonelli's Warbler

Subalpine Warbler

Turtle Dove

As summer draws to a close Honey Buzzards often pass through this part of the Sierra Morena on their migration south. September and October sees large numbers of Spotted Flycatchers stopping off to feed here before making the trip to southern Africa.

Spotted Flycatcher

The Roof of Cordoba

In the Sierra Subbética lies La Tiñosa, the highest peak in the province at 1568 metre above sea level. While the peaks are not home to a wide variety of birds they do hold some of the harder to find species in Coroba. 

Starting at the village of Las Lagunillas we followed the dirt road that leads to Cortijo Alto. Along the way we saw a Green Woodpecker searching for food on the ground among the olive trees. We passed through the farm, but were advised by the farmer that there is a newer path, which avoids having to cut through the farmyard and dodging the dogs. 

Iberian Green Woodpecker

The mountain loomed above, although the peak remained out of sight at this point. The path started with a gentle climb and we passed the ruins of Cortijo Cañatienda. Here Thekla Larks were seen on the path, darting away to safety as we approached. 

Ruins of Cortijo Cañatienda

Thekla Lark

After a while we came to a fence which we crossed and then turned right following the path towards the mountain. Stonechats sang from their high perches, marking their territory. 

Stonechat

We also saw a pair of Rock Buntings in this area. The males are a fantastic looking bird, with their chestnut chest and humbug heads.

Rock Bunting

As we arrived at the rock face, the climb got a little more challenging and at times we were reduced to scrambling up boulders on our hands and knees. We were rewarded for our effort with the sight of Alpine Accentors. These birds love high altitudes and I believe this is the only place you can find them in the province. Black Wheatears also hold territory in this land of rocks and scrubs. We watched as the flew from rock to rock, occasionally ducking into the shrub to find an insect to eat.

Black Wheatear

We skirted round the side of the mountain and reached the Morrión Cave which offered spectacular views of the area we had just climbed. 

View from Morrión Cave

As we climbed further the birdlife declined as the top of the mountain is quite exposed. However, while enjoying the views from the top another Alpine Accentor appeared within metres of us hopping around the ground looking for insects. However, after a few minutes the sharp wind forced to retreat back down the mountain. 

The nearby area has various other trails worth exploring. Fuente del Puerto del Cerezo is a gentler walk but offers sublime views of the Subbética nonetheless. The peak here is home to a colony of Griffon Vultures which glided effortlessly over our heads. A pair of Golden Eagles appeared to be nesting here as well and didn’t seem too bothered by the presence of so many vultures, often riding the same thermals together. 

Puerto del Cerezo

 

Castillo del Névalo

In the heart of the Sierra Morena Cordobesa lies the village of Villaviciosa. The surrounding area is a sparsely populated and home to a mix of woodland and Mediterranean scrub. Not far from the village are the remains of Castillo del Névalo, which most likely dates back to the time when the Moors roamed this area. Today there are only two towers remaining and an alijibe, which is a kind of Arabic cistern for storing drinking water. 

 

To access the start of the route you need to head for the Parque Periurbano about 2km outside of the village. Following the road past the park, you continue for about 5km until the tarmac ends at a farmhouse. You can park your car here and follow the path that starts behind the house. The route is flanked by Strawberry Trees and Fig Trees and then we reach fields filled with Almond Trees, whose blossom is spectacular in the months of January and February. In summer months you will see Bee-eaters hawking for prey above the orchids.

Bee-eater with its prey

 

Almond Blossom

In the thicker scrubs Robins and Nightingales take shade from the Andalusian sun.

Nightingale

After a while we turn left off the main track and enter a pinewood where Crested Tits flit from tree to tree, inspecting each leaf for small insects.

Crested Tit

Long-tailed tits appear almost out of nowhere in their family groups, not staying more than five minutes before moving on again. Another species that travels through the forest are the Azure-winged Magpies. However, they alert us to their presence with their loud squawking calls that they make to each other. As we climb further we can see Rock Buntings and Subalpine Warblers in the area where the path opens up slightly.

Subalpine Warbler

The last stretch is quite steep, but soon we find rubble from the castle buildings at our feet and the sight of watchtower up ahead. Black Redstarts seem to favour the areas around the ruins and from the top, at just over 800 metres, we have spectacular views over the surrounding Sierra. With clear view of the sky we can see Griffon Vultures gliding by on their hunt for their next meal. 

Castillo del Névalo

To return we have to go back the way we came. In total the route is about 7km and is a pleasant morning walk at all times of the year.