The Roof of Cordoba

In the Sierra Subbética lies La Tiñosa, the highest peak in the province at 1568 metre above sea level. While the peaks are not home to a wide variety of birds they do hold some of the harder to find species in Coroba. 

Starting at the village of Las Lagunillas we followed the dirt road that leads to Cortijo Alto. Along the way we saw a Green Woodpecker searching for food on the ground among the olive trees. We passed through the farm, but were advised by the farmer that there is a newer path, which avoids having to cut through the farmyard and dodging the dogs. 

Iberian Green Woodpecker

The mountain loomed above, although the peak remained out of sight at this point. The path started with a gentle climb and we passed the ruins of Cortijo Cañatienda. Here Thekla Larks were seen on the path, darting away to safety as we approached. 

Ruins of Cortijo Cañatienda

Thekla Lark

After a while we came to a fence which we crossed and then turned right following the path towards the mountain. Stonechats sang from their high perches, marking their territory. 

Stonechat

We also saw a pair of Rock Buntings in this area. The males are a fantastic looking bird, with their chestnut chest and humbug heads.

Rock Bunting

As we arrived at the rock face, the climb got a little more challenging and at times we were reduced to scrambling up boulders on our hands and knees. We were rewarded for our effort with the sight of Alpine Accentors. These birds love high altitudes and I believe this is the only place you can find them in the province. Black Wheatears also hold territory in this land of rocks and scrubs. We watched as the flew from rock to rock, occasionally ducking into the shrub to find an insect to eat.

Black Wheatear

We skirted round the side of the mountain and reached the Morrión Cave which offered spectacular views of the area we had just climbed. 

View from Morrión Cave

As we climbed further the birdlife declined as the top of the mountain is quite exposed. However, while enjoying the views from the top another Alpine Accentor appeared within metres of us hopping around the ground looking for insects. However, after a few minutes the sharp wind forced to retreat back down the mountain. 

The nearby area has various other trails worth exploring. Fuente del Puerto del Cerezo is a gentler walk but offers sublime views of the Subbética nonetheless. The peak here is home to a colony of Griffon Vultures which glided effortlessly over our heads. A pair of Golden Eagles appeared to be nesting here as well and didn’t seem too bothered by the presence of so many vultures, often riding the same thermals together. 

Puerto del Cerezo

 

Castillo del Névalo

In the heart of the Sierra Morena Cordobesa lies the village of Villaviciosa. The surrounding area is a sparsely populated and home to a mix of woodland and Mediterranean scrub. Not far from the village are the remains of Castillo del Névalo, which most likely dates back to the time when the Moors roamed this area. Today there are only two towers remaining and an alijibe, which is a kind of Arabic cistern for storing drinking water. 

 

To access the start of the route you need to head for the Parque Periurbano about 2km outside of the village. Following the road past the park, you continue for about 5km until the tarmac ends at a farmhouse. You can park your car here and follow the path that starts behind the house. The route is flanked by Strawberry Trees and Fig Trees and then we reach fields filled with Almond Trees, whose blossom is spectacular in the months of January and February. In summer months you will see Bee-eaters hawking for prey above the orchids.

Bee-eater with its prey

 

Almond Blossom

In the thicker scrubs Robins and Nightingales take shade from the Andalusian sun.

Nightingale

After a while we turn left off the main track and enter a pinewood where Crested Tits flit from tree to tree, inspecting each leaf for small insects.

Crested Tit

Long-tailed tits appear almost out of nowhere in their family groups, not staying more than five minutes before moving on again. Another species that travels through the forest are the Azure-winged Magpies. However, they alert us to their presence with their loud squawking calls that they make to each other. As we climb further we can see Rock Buntings and Subalpine Warblers in the area where the path opens up slightly.

Subalpine Warbler

The last stretch is quite steep, but soon we find rubble from the castle buildings at our feet and the sight of watchtower up ahead. Black Redstarts seem to favour the areas around the ruins and from the top, at just over 800 metres, we have spectacular views over the surrounding Sierra. With clear view of the sky we can see Griffon Vultures gliding by on their hunt for their next meal. 

Castillo del Névalo

To return we have to go back the way we came. In total the route is about 7km and is a pleasant morning walk at all times of the year.

A Walk on the Wild Side

Santa Maria de Trassierra is one of the most common starting points for walks in the Sierra next to Cordoba. With lockdown restrictions limiting what people can do, there has been an increase in people escaping to the mountains for a day out. Most head to popular spots to the north-east of the village like Baños de Pompeya or Fuente de Elefante causing human traffic jams along the routes. So at the start of April I decided to take a walk through the less well-known part of the Sierra that lies to the south-west of the village.

I started from the Los Almendros restaurant, following signs for Rosal de las Escuelas. For the first couple of hundred metres the path is flanked by pricky pear cactus. Some of the pads were covered in a white cotton-like substance. When you pick it up and squeeze it, it turns red. This is actually a waxy fiber used by sucking insects called cochineal to protect them while they fed on the plant. Cochineal used to be one of the main sources of red dye until synthetic dyes were produced. However, these insects are still used today to give red colour to things such as cosmetics and foodstuffs.

After this first section there is a large field on the right. This is a good spot to stop and check out the birdlife. In winter Mistle Thurshes and Song Thrushes feed in the field and it is also a favourite haunt for groups of Hawfinches. Blackcaps and Sardinian Warblers can also be seen feeding in the shrubs.

Hawfinch

Here I came across some very strange looking flowers called the Andalusian Dutchman's Pipe. They are a type of vine and were growing in the shade of the cork oak trees.

Andalusian Dutchman's Pipe

As I continued Chaffinches flitted from tree to tree and Great Tits gave their distinctive 'teacher, teacher, teacher' call.   

Great Tit

The path descended slightly into a a shaded area with huge ancient oaks covered in moss. There is a gate here and to the right of it is the Fuente de la Marquesa, which once fed the Roman aqueduct Valdepuentes, bringing water to Medina Azahara. 

A Great Spotted Woodpecker called from a distance before coming into view and landing on a tree trunk. It climbed its way up using its claws to grip the tree and its stiff tail feathers for extra support.

Great Spotted Woodpecker

For the next 1200 metres I passed through a shaded area with Strawberry Trees and Lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus) until I reached the Guarroman Stream. Stopping for a drink I saw Short-toed Treecreepers, Sardinian Warblers and Robins.

Robin

Next I had to negotiate my way through a herd of cows before the path opened up again into dehesa with Holm Oaks. There is a small body of water on the left which is signposted as a fish farm. I heard Cuckoos calling and saw flashes of blue as Azure-winged Magpies took off as I approached. Passing a farm on the left I entered one of the most beautiful parts of the walk with meadows filled with spring flowers.

Spring time in the dehesa

Curious cows

Continuing on for another couple of kilometres I came to a crossroad. The path to the left takes you to the Pozo de las Cruces, whereas the track to the right brings you to the village of Santa Maria de Trassierra. However, I stayed on the CP-159 path for another 5 kilometres. The day was starting to heat up and the smell from the Gum Rockrose leaves filled the air. These sticky leaves are used to make essential oils and are used as a fixative in the production of perfumes.

Flower of the Gum Rockrose

11 kilometres from the start I came across a large Hacienda on my right and decided to stop for lunch in the shade of some trees. If I had carried on I would have eventually come out at Almodovar del Rio, but I decided to turn round and retrace my steps. This is a easy walk mostly on the flat and there are options of turning it into a circular walk. However, that would have meant walking along the road for a while from the village back to the restaurant. I managed to avoid the crowds of people, only seeing two other walkers and a few cyclists all day. 

The Guadalora Stream

March in Cordoba this year brought unseasonably warm weather. It was a great time to get out into the countryside before it got unbearably hot and I was rewarded with fantastic meadows filled with wild flowers and the first of the migrants arriving from Africa. I headed to the Parque Natural Sierra de Hornachuelos to do a signposted walk that passes along the Guadalora stream, the source of which is near San Calixto. This path requires permission from the visitor centre and is closed from June to September. At the end of this route I joined the Sendero del Aguila which took me back to my starting point.

From the visitor centre I started along the Rabilarga path. The riparian woodland here is a good place to look out for Lesser and Great Spotted Woodpeckers and other typical woodland species such as Great Tits and Blue Tits.

Great Spotted Woodpecker 

Once I joined the Guadalora path I passed through beautiful Cork-Oak forest home to Nuthatches, Crested Tits and Chaffinches. 

Nuthatch

This soon gave way to open countryside with Crested Larks and Corn Buntings giving their jangle call from their perches. After a while the path went back into Holm Oak and Cork Oak woodland for a short section before coming out into farmland. Here I walked along the side of olive groves and meadows filled with bright red poppies, yellow Camomiles and butterflies such as Painted Lady and Swallowtail. Next I arrived at a spring called Fuente del Conejo. Hoopoes took flight, their wave-like wingbeats showing their broad back and white wings. This was a good spot to find newly arrived Subalpine Warblers bathing in the pond. 

Subalpine Warbler drying off after bathing

.

Swallowtail

Further on the track I passed through a gate and a tunnel of overarching vegetation. Along the side of the path wild lavender was in abundance and I found various species of orchid, such the brilliantly named Naked Man Orchid.

Naked Man Orchid

Eventually I came to a look out point which offered great views of the surrounding area before the path descended through mixed Mediterranean scrub towards the stream. The silence of the Sierra was only broken by the harsh rattling call of Sardinian Warblers. 

Views of the Sierra de Hornachuelos

When I reached the stream itself I crossed it at the ford and then followed the track alongside the gently flowing water. This part of the walk was shaded offering protection from the spring sun. Robins and Blackcaps could be seen feeding in the shrubs and the European Nettle Trees. 

Robin

Hawfinches and Cirl Buntings were seen here too and it is a good area for Golden Orioles later in the year. 

Hawfinch

After a while the track crossed the stream again and I looked for dragonflies, Iberian Water Frogs and Viperine Snakes in the pools of water. 

Iberian Water Frog

Before the end of the path I came to an old quarry and looking upwards saw soaring Griffon Vultures. The end of the Guadolara track is at the Puente de La Esira and here I crossed the road and joined the Sendero del Aguila which rises up through Cork Oak woods, where I saw groups of Azure-winged Magpies. After a steep ascent I stopped at a look out point for lunch and watched Red-rumped Swallows feeding above the trees. After some time the path skirted around the edge of the village of Hornachuelos, where I saw Green Woodpeckers and Crested Larks, and then headed back into Mediterranean shrub which led me back to the visitor centre. In total it was about 22 kilometres through some of the most beautiful and unspoilt parts of the Sierra Morena. 

Guadalora Stream

Hide Away

As 2020 rolled to an end the Covid-19 restrictions tightened in Andalusia, preventing travel outside our local area. This seemed like the perfect excuse for me to work on a plan I have had for a while. It was time to build my own bird hide. This would give me the opportunity to observe and photograph up close the birds of the Sierra Morena. The area I chose is surrounded by cork oaks and pines, which attract a wide range of woodland species such as Tits, Finches, Woodpeckers and noisy travelling bands of Azure-winged Magpies.   

Eurasian Nuthatch

My brother-in-law was the brains behind the hide, coming up with the design and helping me build it. My first job was to level the ground before laying pallets which would be the base. 

Building the base

Then we constructed a metal frame which would be strong enough to support the wooden panels of the hide. We sloped the roof to help rain water run off. Next we cut wood to fit into frame and added four windows which could act as a table to support a camera when opened. At present I haven't added spy glass- that may be a future add-on. However, I was worried about losing quality in photographs taken through glass.

The frame

I coated the wood to protect it from the damp before adding a plastic cover to keep the water out. Finally, the whole construction was wrapped in brown wind shield material. 

The finished hide

To start I have a set up a feeder with sunflower seeds and a small pond for the birds to drink from and bathe in. I will need to experiment with the food I put out to see what works best and I plan to use mealworms to attract insectivorous species.

Within a couple of weeks I had a Great Tit cautiously approaching the feeder. Then the Nuthatches arrived. They appeared to be less wary, with two individuals coming in to the feeder regularly, often leaving with two or three sunflower seeds at a time to take back to their store. I suspect I might see sunflowers growing nearby next spring! Sometimes they would take a seed and bang it against the bark of the tree in an attempt to get it open. This behaviour is what gave the bird its name. The suffix hatch deriving from the word hack. I also observed the other typical behaviour of this species, that is their ability to climb both up and down the side of a tree. They would often land high up in the tree, wait for the other bird to finish gathering seeds, before climbing down to the feeder. By the time the bird had got the seeds the second bird was back and waiting in position. It felt like a busy airport at times.

A Nuthatch showing off its ability to climb down a tree head first.

While the hide allows me to learn about the behaviour od indiviual species it also gives me the chance to observe the interactions and dynamics between species. The Nuthatches are the bosses at the moment. They bully the Chaffinches, which have to make do with picking up the scraps on the ground most of the time. A Chiffchaff also came to the water feature, but it too was scared off by the bold Nuthatches. 

Chaffinch

With time I hope to see more species come in to feed and bathe. The anticipation of what I might see certainly makes up for the effort of building the hide. Now I have the perfect hide away to enjoy doing what I like best - watching my feathered friends. 

Winter is coming

The arrival of autumn in Cordoba is signalled by the arrival of much needed rain after the long hot summer. The nights become colder, while the daytime can still bring glorious sunshine and temperatures in the thirties. The changes are noticeable everywhere. The locals perform the ‘change of wardrobe’, putting away the summer clothes until next year and the chestnut vendors set up their stalls across the city. In the garden the persimmons and pomegranates are ready to be picked and the oranges begin to ripen on the trees. In the countryside the olive harvest is picked ready to be pressed or marinated. And in the Sierra it is the time of the 'berrea' or rutting season and mushroom picking.

This time of year is also marked by the departure of our summer visitors, such as the colourful Bee-eaters, Rollers and Golden Orioles. However, we are compensated by the arrival of new bird species, either passing through as they make their way to Africa or those that wintering here in southern Spain. Black Redstarts, Pied and Spotted Flycatchers, White Wagtails and Meadow Pipts appear in the gardens and parks in the city, as do flocks of Starlings. The nests of White Storks on electricity pylons which line the main roads into the city are left empty for a few weeks as their inhabitants head south. However, they are soon occupied by other storks arriving from further north in Europe. 

The weather permits walks into the Sierra where the birdlife is more visible than in the hot summer months. Without the distraction of our summer visitors we can closely observe our resident mountains species. Robins, Nuthatches, Tits and Finches are commonly found as they make their preparations for winter. 

Great Tits are widespread both in the oakwoods and pinewoods. The characteristic black band may be an indicator of dominance. Individuals with thicker black bands are more successful in attracting a mate during breeding season.

Great Tit

The Chaffinch is ubiquitous in the woodlands of the Sierra Moreno and its numbers are boosted in autumn and winter by individuals from Scandinavia and the Baltic States.  

Chaffinch having a bad hair day

One bird which is always a joy to see is the Hawfinch, which often moves in small flocks through the Oakwood forest. Its thick neck and huge powerful beak contrast with its shy and elusive nature. 

Hawfinch having a drink

Greenfinches and Goldfinches, which are common in the city gardens and parks, also have their numbers boosted by birds from northern climes. 

Greenfinch

Goldfinch

As temperatures in northern Europe drop we can look forward to winter visitors such as Bramblings, Siskins and Redwings. In the dehesas of the north of the province Common Cranes should be arriving soon too. There is evidence that their arrival in Spain is occurring earlier in recent years, possibly due to an advance in the breeding season as a result of increasing temperatures in northern Europe.

Spending time in the Sierra of Cordoba allows me to experience the changing of the seasons. The chestnuts on the trees, the ripening of the fruit of the Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo) and departure and arrival of birds all act as a natural calendar and as a marker of time. 

Surviving the Summer

Cordoba is renowned for its scorching hot summers, with temperatures regularly in the 40s in July and August. This poses a problem for birds as they risk overheating and death. Songbirds have have a relatively large body surface area through which they absorb heat and so to counteract this they become inactive during the hottest parts of the day. Unable to sweat, they can be seen panting in an effort to maintain their body temperature and will seek water sources for hydration and bathing. This is advantageous for birders as if you find the right spot, all you have to do is sit and wait for the birds to come to you.  

One such spot is the spring at Fuente del Elefante in the sierra next to Cordoba. It becomes a hive of activity with Long-tailed tits coming down in family groups for a dip as well as Great Tits and Blue Tits. Goldfinches, Serins and Chaffinches are also frequent visitors as are warblers like Bonelli's and Sardinian. The songbirds are usually forced to retreat when a Jay or a group of noisy Azure-winged Magpies decide it is their turn. 

Bonelli's Warbler

Bonelli's Warbler

The shade of the bushes around the stream also provide protection from the heat of the sun. Here Blackbirds, Wrens and Robins hop along the ground in search of small insects. 

Robin

Southern Skimmer

The large fig trees next to the aqueduct attract Golden Orioles and groups of squabbling Spotless Starlings. Hawfinches can be seen feeding in the treetops and this August I saw a male Bullfinch too. This is an unusual sighting. The Sierra Morena is at the southern tip of their winter range but finding one this far south in the middle of the summer is unexpected as their breeding range is in the far north of the Iberian peninsula. Eduardo de Juana and Ernest Garcia in their book 'The Birds of the Iberian Peninsula' say that there have been occasional reports of stray Bullfinches in the south of Spain in the summer months (Monfrague in July 1997 and the Sierra de Mijas in June 1998). 

Bullfinch

The cork oak forest is the ideal area for Nuthatches and Short-toed Treecreepers to show off their acrobatic skills as they search for food. Crested Tits are also common and Spotted Flycatchers can be seen sallying from their perches to hawk insects flying close to the ground. 

Crested Tit

Larger soaring birds, with their relatively smaller body surface area are able to cope with the heat better and take advantage of the warm thermals to reach cooler air at higher altitudes. This area is home to a colony of Griffon Vultures as well as Booted Eagles.

August is also a time when many species start making their way south to Africa frequently stopping off in the Sierra. Large numbers of Bee-eaters pass overhead filling the skies with their noisy chattering as they go. Others such as the Western Olivaceous Warbler (also know as the Isabelline Warbler- the adjective Isabelline is given to other species of birds such as a shrike and wheatear because of their greyish brown colour) descend from the mountains to the Guadalquivir valley on their southern passage.

Western Olivaceous Warbler

The wealth of species here shows us how birds have adapted remarkably well to the blazing hot temperatures of the Andalusian summer and that in fact it is us birdwatchers who seem less capable of coping!